Why do skincare creators show off with the "tiny dots method"? Wasn't the recommended amount of retinoids supposed to be a "pea-sized" portion?

Why do skincare creators show off with the tiny dots method? Wasn't the recommended amount of retinoids supposed to be a pea-sized portion?

I don’t know about you, but if you’ve even accidentally ended up on beautytok, it’s basically impossible not to have come across at least one video of a creator applying a retinoid using the tiny dots method. In other words: lots of tiny dots of product all over the face, like you’re decorating a cake. So the question comes up immediately: didn’t we agree that the right amount of retinoids is a pea-sized amount? Literally a very small quantity, about the size of a green pea, to be evenly spread across the entire face. So why do these girls seem to be doing the opposite and applying it everywhere? Here’s what we found out.

Why are skincare creators going all in on the "tiny dots method"?

Let’s start from the beginning: what is the tiny dots method?

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The tiny dot method is a way of applying active ingredients (like retinoids and similar) and it’s not meant to increase the total amount of product, but technically to distribute it better and control where it goes. Some people focus it only on areas with expression lines, but the principle stays the same. In theory, all those little dots combined should equal the famous pea-sized amount. In practice, though, on TikTok it often completely loses its meaning: tiny dots turn into visible blobs and it shifts from a strategic application to actual face decoration designed more to get views. Also, with retinoids, more doesn’t mean better, it just means irritated, sensitized skin and potentially pushing your skin barrier into a full-on existential crisis.

The tiny dots method done right

@jilliangottlieb

Retinol Tiny Dot Method

original sound - Jillian Gottlieb

The tiny dots method actually works when it’s used with a bit of logic, meaning starting from the correct amount first. In practice: you take the right dose, and only then distribute it across your face in tiny dots using your finger. This way you have full control: you know exactly how much product you’re using and where you’re applying it, without risking layering too much in some areas and none in others. That’s the real point of the method: precision and evenness, not excess.

So how should you properly apply retinoids?

The basic rules are few but essential: use a small amount, apply on dry skin, and be patient. Always start with the classic pea-sized amount, spreading it evenly across the face. Retinoids should be applied at night, after cleansing, waiting a few minutes until the skin is completely dry. If you’re a beginner, you can rely on the sandwich method, meaning applying the retinoid between two layers of moisturizer to help your skin adjust without irritation. And then consistency and patience. Once or twice a week at the beginning, without rushing results, because retinoids are not something to mess around with. It’s also essential to apply sunscreen the next day. No exceptions.