"The true success of a fragrance lies in balance" Interview with Vanina Muracciole, independent perfumer at Jeroboam

"I’m Vanina Muracciole, a senior French perfumer based in Paris", direct and straight to the point. That’s how our interview began. We met her through Jeroboam, the independent fragrance house dedicated to perfume extracts, where she has been working since 2014 alongside founder François Hénin. A four-handed collaboration that began with a distinctive olfactory signature: the famous musky base of Origino. On the occasion of the launch of the new fragrance, Eliksiro, we sat down with her for a chat. Here’s what she told us.

Interview with Independent Perfumer Vanina Muracciole

What does it mean to be a perfumer today, in a market saturated with new releases and increasingly influenced by social media?

I’m an independent perfumer so for me being a perfumer today means, above all, remaining a creator in a fast-paced environment. The market is saturated with new launches, and social media can accelerate a fragrance’s success just as quickly as it can cause it to be forgotten. In this context, the real challenge is not to succumb to the constant pursuit of instant gratification. A perfumer does not simply create a product; they tell a story, convey an emotion and seek to evoke a memory. Trends are important because they reflect the expectations of an era, but they must not take the place of creative vision.

When you begin creating a fragrance, do you start from an image, an emotion, a raw material, or a story?

There is no single way to create a fragrance. Every project has its own starting point. It might be an emotion, a memory, an encounter, a place, or even a particularly inspiring raw ingredient. Personally colors are very important too. When I think about a new idea I have colors in mind that I translate in raw materials.

In the press materials you speak of a "magic potion." What makes Eliksiro a fragrance capable of evoking this image?

With Eliksiro, I wanted to recapture that almost alchemical aspect of perfumery. Each creation is conceived as a precious blend of ingredients capable of evoking an emotion, revealing a facet of one’s self, or transporting the wearer to an imaginary realm. A magic potion is not merely a blend of ingredients; it is a promise, an experience and a touch of the dream. Eliksiro embodies this vision: fragrances conceived as contemporary elixirs, where creativity, exceptional raw materials and emotion come together to create something that transcends the simple function of perfume.

Was there a precise moment during the construction of Eliksiro when you knew the formula was right?

For me, creating a fragrance is a process of maturation involving trials, doubts, adjustments and sometimes even second thoughts. However, there is a very special moment when the fragrance ceases to be a formula and becomes self-evident. This is when the emotion we were seeking is finally there, intact, and stands the test of time, changes and various assessments. At that moment, we no longer seek to correct or add anything: the fragrance tells exactly the story we wanted to tell.

Which aspect of the fragrance do you think will surprise those who wear it the most?

I think what will surprise those who wear this fragrance most is its base note. As the composition evolves elegantly throughout its development, it gradually reveals an unexpected signature built around raspberry and amber woods. The raspberry brings a vibrant, indulgent and luminous facet, whilst the amber woods lend it depth, sensuality and modernity. This combination creates a trail that is both addictive and sophisticated, leaving a lasting impression without ever being overpowering.

Are there ingredients you feel are particularly your own that recur frequently in your creations?

Yes, the Bois de Gaiac, cardamom and ambroxan.

Do you have the impression that new generations are developing a different relationship with fragrance compared to the past?

Yes, without a doubt. The younger generations have a more relaxed and uninhibited approach to perfume. Whereas people used to choose a signature scent that they would wear for years, today’s consumers enjoy exploring, collecting and changing their perfume to suit their mood, the season or the occasion. Social media has also transformed the way we discover fragrances. It has made fragrance culture more accessible and sparked the curiosity of a younger, better-informed and more discerning audience. However, what has not changed is the search for emotion. Behind the trends and the rapid pace of communication, perfume remains a deeply personal object. Above all, the younger generations are looking for creations that allow them to express their personality and tell their own story.

There is a lot of talk today about "loud" fragrances with strong projection and high longevity. Is this a genuine consumer demand or a consequence of social media culture?

I think it’s both. Consumers have always sought out fragrances that last, as longevity is often seen as a measure of quality and value. Nobody wants to invest in a fragrance that fades away after an hour. However, social media has clearly amplified this phenomenon. Today, terms such as ‘sillage’, ‘projection’ or ‘performance’ have become central to the discourse surrounding fragrance. We sometimes evaluate a creation almost as if it were a technical product, measuring its strength before even considering its emotional impact or its composition. For my part, I believe that a great fragrance is not defined solely by its strength. True success lies in balance: being present enough to leave a memorable impression, whilst retaining elegance, nuance and refinement. The sillage must accompany a story, not replace it.

What olfactory trends do you think will define the coming years?

I believe that the boundaries between categories will continue to blur. Consumers now choose a fragrance for how it makes them feel, rather than for whether it is marketed as feminine or masculine, or even for its olfactory family. Finally, exceptional raw materials, original signatures and meaningful creations will play an increasingly important role in a market where identity is becoming the true rarity.