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Skincare glossary: what is dimethicone and why it is used in beauty

Are silicones in cosmetics really bad for the skin?

Skincare glossary: what is dimethicone and why it is used in beauty Are silicones in cosmetics really bad for the skin?

There are still many companies that use silicones in their cosmetics. We hear all kinds of things about these preservatives, which are present in most of the beauty products that fill our bathrooms. But do we really know what their functions, flaws and merits are? Silicones are organic derivatives of silicon, and their main characteristic is to make a product more stable and resistant from the point of view of durability, as well as to make skin and hair softer due to their ability to give rise to a water-repellent barrier, which functions as a protective element against external agents, for example, polluting particles. 

The most widely used is certainly Dimethicone: an emollient substance that is widely used in numerous cosmetic formulations because of the many properties conferred on products containing it. Spending some time searching for this word on the web, it is easy to find arguments and claims about how the ingredient (and silicones in general) clogs pores and causes acne, but you will also find other articles stating the exact opposite. The topic, in fact, is much debated.

Basically, the role of Dimethicone is to improve skin smoothness by sealing the spaces between the superficial dead cells of the stratum corneum (the top layer of the epidermis) and is often used in facial cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, moisturizers, and primers. Despite being occlusive, Dimethicone is - however - non-comedogenic and acnegenic: which is why it is commonly used in oil-free formulations to give long-lasting hydration without clogging pores. It also controls the shine effect on oily skin. It's a bit of a "chemist's Swiss Army knife"-it's used in a bit of all sauces to make products brighter, more pleasant, and above all, more sensory-friendly, as it provides a silky-smooth texture to topical creams and lotions and allows a product to have a light, non-greasy texture that applies quickly and easily.

But now to the side effects, this is where things get a bit complicated. As already stated, since Dimethicone is considered an occlusive, there is mass confusion about whether it causes clogged pores and irritation and prevents other ingredients from being absorbed by the skin. But according to dermatologists, there is no scientific basis for these claims. Silicones are not comedogenic and sensitizing; in fact, compared to other ingredients they certainly remain "cleaner" because they are pure synthetics. For example, plant oils and butters can be quite complex when squeezed from plants and are more likely to contain potential allergens. So yes, it is true that Dimethicone functions as an occlusive, but this is a basic function in moisturizers and is by no means to be thought of as the scary analogy of "putting a plastic film on your face" that we sometimes tend to refer to. However, like all cosmetics, it is always good to test any product before applying it all over your face to see if the formula as a whole is right for you.

On how to use it, dermatologists say that this ingredient is safe for daily use, but the frequency and order in which you apply formulas that contain Dimethicone depends on what the product is specifically. If you are using it in something like a moisturizer or primer, the best advice is to apply it to clean, damp skin after cleansing. And because it's occlusive, it's best to apply water-based serums and gels first, and then finish with creams, oils and balms to optimize absorption of the active ingredients and "lock them in."

Are you ready? nss G-Club has selected for you the 5 must-have products containing Dimethicone:

CERAVE Moisturizing Face Cream

CERAVE Moisturizing Face Cream

12,65€
EUPHIDRA Filling and remodeling anti-wrinkle cream

EUPHIDRA Filling and remodeling anti-wrinkle cream

32,79€
DERMALOGICA Skin Smoothing Cream

DERMALOGICA Skin Smoothing Cream

18€
LA ROCHE POSAY Effaclar MAT

LA ROCHE POSAY Effaclar MAT

13,95€
KORFF Base Uniform

KORFF Base Uniform

35€