Flowers for spring, the trend Miranda Priesley would hate Between Y2K and Corsagecore, fabric appliqués of roses and other flowers bloom on seasonal outfits

This spring, Miranda Presley needs to get her act together, because flowers are blooming again on dresses and accessories, but not just in the usual prints. Roses, camellias, peonies and anthuriums are becoming stars in 3D versions, three-dimensional appliqués made of fabric that are placed on tops, dresses and skirts, giving outfits a touch of vintage romance. The trend, which has conquered the catwalks of celebrities and SS23, is reminiscent of the Corsagecore aesthetic and the tradition of wearing flowers on special occasions. It seems that even the ancient Greeks had the custom of pinning or sticking bouquets of fragrant flowers to dresses at weddings as a good omen to ward off evil spirits, and in the 19th century corsage (flower bracelet) and boutonniere were a decorative element also used to mask odours. They became popular as part of the dating ritual in the 1950s and many of us became familiar with the fashion in the 1950s when boys wore them to the prom as a tribute to their girlfriends or thanks to Carrie Bradshaw who wore them several times in Sex and the City. The recent obsession with Y2K style, for which the series with Sarah Jessica Parker is iconic, is largely the reason for the resurgence of floral appliqués.

Recent catwalks have been a veritable flower garden. Impossible not to mention Chanel's camellias or Loewe's anthuriums, but it was roses in all colours, shapes, sizes and materials that dominated. At Dries Van Noten, large chiffon roses made shirts special; at Puppets and Puppets, red roses were used as nipple covers; at Acne Studios, they bloomed at chest level on Vichy suits, while Philosophy by Lorenzo Serafini used them to add a stylish touch to blazers and tops. Magda Butrym also made roses the trademark of her brand and used them in almost every one of her creations. Most other brands, such as Blumarine or Carolina Herrera, chose them as three-dimensional appliqués on dresses with a soft silhouette, often already decorated with a floral print, to emphasise the romance of the garment but without being obtrusive. The fact that 3D flowers are favoured for SS23 gives us the opportunity to put the decoration where we prefer, using it as a necklace or brooch to spice up a slightly boring outfit or even a slightly too minimalist bag.

Corsagecore has won over trendsetters like Bella Hadid and Devon Lee Carlson, who followed Carrie Bradshaw's lead and added the flowers to corsets, tops, necklaces and anywhere else that suited their fancy. While these modern it-girls also wear the trend in everyday life, other celebrities prefer flowers and especially roses on their red carpet gowns. Remember Lizzo, who created spring fever at the 2023 Grammy Awards when she came draped in a bright tangerine-coloured cape covered in roses, the same flower that adorned her 3D manicure? Nicole Kidman in an Armani Privé adorned with three large roses at the 2023 Oscars and Zendaya wearing a stunning pink look with cascading roses by Valentino at this year's SAG Awards? One of the last stars to opt for a dress made of roses in fabric, mini, black and by Givenchy was Anne Hathaway in her mini dress at the opening of the Bulgari Hotel in Tokyo, but wearing flowers like in ancient Greece is not a fad reserved only for women. As Harry Styles showed at the BRIT Awards 2023 and also Eddie Redmayne and Paul Mescal at the last Academy Awards, flower appliqués are completely gender-neutral.