The sensual lightness of the Nensi Dojaka

No breakthroughs or celebrities to draw all the attention. The focus of Nensi Dojaka's fashion is still the dresses and her ability to play with glamour, layering, bare skin and the purity of lines and materials that have made her creations favourites of Beyoncé, Anya Taylor-Joy, Olivia Rodrigo, Zendaya, Sienna Miller and Rita Ora. For the autumn-winter 2023 collection, the young Albanian-born designer, winner of the LVMH Prize 2021, wanted to expand her wardrobe by building on previous work but interpreting it in a more minimalist way and enriching it with new pieces. Inspiration comes from nature, as it has in the past. Flowers made of hand-folded tulle panels bloom on breasts, straps, hips and ankles, while frilly bra cups and godet skirts look like delicate petals. Snow, on the other hand, is the reference for the intangible tulle dress, studded with Swarovski crystals, cotton wools and pearls imitating snowflakes.

On the runway, the famous little black sheer dresses are seen, with transparent tulle draping, flared cuts, bra cups decorated with little ruffles and bodice-like details. Alongside these elements that tell of a hyper-feminine, elegant and confident sensuality, there are dresses in jersey, velvet or knit decorated with pearls and Swarovski crystals, hybrid trousers adorned with georgette inserts and lace, denim, small leather blousons, faux fur coats and long tailored coats. New designs include new kitten heels and a jewellery range created in collaboration with Bunney. Plus points of the fashion show? The cast of models, which included Jill Kortleve, Caroline Trentini, Adut Akech, Mariacarla Boscono and Imaan Hammam.