Azelaic acid and zinc oxide, everything about the viral skincare combo What are the benefits and what do you need to know before trying it?

Social media has a new skincare obsession, as they do every other week: azelaic acid and zinc oxide. Used together, these two ingredients are said to help skin prone to blemishes, redness and irritation. But before adding yet another combination to your routine, it's worth finding out whether it actually works or is simply the latest trend to try.

Azelaic acid and zinc oxide: everything to know about the skincare combo going viral on social media

Azelaic acid

Azelaic acid is increasingly common in skincare routines for sensitive skin prone to blemishes, redness and post-pimple marks. It's particularly popular because it can be effective without being as irritating as some other active ingredients, although tolerability depends on both the concentration and the formulation. It has anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties and helps regulate keratinisation, the process by which skin cells renew themselves, thereby improving skin texture. As well as improving the appearance of acne-prone skin, it can help fade the dark marks left behind by pimples. It's also used in rosacea treatments. Like any active ingredient, however, azelaic acid can cause tingling, dryness and irritation, especially when first introduced. It's best to start gradually, choosing a concentration suited to your skin. Azelaic acid does not, in itself, increase sun sensitivity, unlike other active ingredients such as retinol. So forgetting sunscreen one morning doesn't carry the same risk of photosensitivity, although SPF remains essential, of course, to protect the skin and help prevent new dark spots, particularly if you're prone to acne. As for how often to use it, application once or twice a day may be appropriate, depending on the formulation. If your skin is sensitive, it's better to start once a day or every other day, gradually increasing frequency according to how well your skin tolerates it.

Zinc oxide

Zinc oxide is the second ingredient in this combo, best known for its use in the white creams and pastes applied to babies during nappy changes. But that's precisely the point: thanks to its protective and soothing properties, it helps form a barrier on the skin's surface, limiting contact with irritants and helping keep the skin protected, which can in turn reduce redness and irritation. There's one thing to bear in mind, though: some zinc pastes may also contain occlusive ingredients that, depending on the formulation and your skin type, could feel too heavy.

The ultimate combo: azelaic acid + zinc oxide

So, here's the bottom line: on paper, this combo makes perfect sense. Azelaic acid and zinc oxide serve different purposes, but they could complement each other: the former helps address blemishes, redness and post-pimple marks, while the latter helps protect and soothe the skin. It's no surprise that so many creators on social media say they've found a way to improve their skin and restore balance to their skin barrier with this combination. Personal experiences aside, however, clinical studies demonstrating the effectiveness of using these two ingredients together are still lacking. That doesn't mean the combo can't be beneficial; it simply means you'll need to try it yourself to see whether it works and suits your skin. How? It's pretty straightforward: in the evening, apply your azelaic acid, followed by a thin layer of zinc paste.