Dupe culture will never die Why low-cost alternatives continue to earn a place in our beauty bags

In 2001, Leonard Lauder, then chairman of the hugely successful Estée Lauder Companies, introduced the controversial theory known as the Lipstick Index. According to the businessman, during periods of economic uncertainty and financial hardship, consumers tended to give up expensive, non-essential purchases, but never a new lipstick. It was a small luxury capable of delivering the same emotional gratification as far more expensive purchases, such as a new car or the latest smartphone, at only a fraction of the cost. Although the theory has never been scientifically proven and today's socio-economic landscape looks very different from the early 2000s, it still offers an interesting lens through which to examine what we now call dupe culture: the growing tendency to buy affordable make-up and skincare products that appear to deliver the same performance as their high-end counterparts. But is that really the case?

Dupes spark social media debate: the Charlotte Tilbury case

Recently, the conversation around beauty dupes exploded once again thanks to what social media quickly dubbed the "Charlotte Gate." In an interview with the BBC, Charlotte Tilbury, the celebrity make-up artist and founder of the eponymous beauty brand, shared a rather uncompromising opinion on the subject. "When you create a dupe, you're duping the consumer," Tilbury said, insisting that dupes could never deliver the same results as her products. It was essentially a beauty-industry version of "don't compare yourself to me," echoing the now-iconic exchange between Naomi Campbell and Nicole Trunfio on The Face Australia. As expected on a platform as influential as TikTok, Tilbury's comments quickly went viral, prompting countless creators to weigh in. Among the first was Nina Pool, who challenged some of the make-up artist's claims by alleging she had identified the German manufacturer behind Tilbury's famous lip liners. The twist? According to Pool, the same supplier also manufactures cosmetics for KIKO Milano, a brand positioned at a significantly lower price point. Nina Pool's video was only the beginning. Other prominent voices soon joined the conversation, including Sandra (Cindy) Sold, founder of Mulac Cosmetics, and Cristina Fogazzi, better known in Italy as L'Estetista Cinica and founder of Overskin and Veralab. According to both Italian entrepreneurs, even when brands occupy completely different market positions while offering seemingly similar products, purchasing decisions and brand loyalty are driven primarily by effective storytelling and the values associated with a brand. Marketing, understood as the art of storytelling and community building, becomes the magic wand that transforms a shimmering lip gloss or a loose setting powder into the protagonists of a much bigger narrative, one built on creativity, expertise and emotional connection.

There is no dupe for beauty culture

In an era where trends disappear almost overnight and product comparisons have become almost mathematical, perhaps it's time to return to the fundamentals and rediscover the value of genuine beauty culture. There is absolutely nothing wrong with choosing a more affordable product over a luxury alternative. What becomes unrealistic, however, is expecting that lower-priced option to be completely identical to a premium one. Take brands like La Mer or Augustinus Bader, for example, in the world of luxury skincare. Their patented technologies, proprietary research, years of scientific development and trademark innovations are fundamental components of what makes those products unique. They don't simply define the formula, they define the brand's reputation and distinctiveness within the global beauty industry. Of course, a higher price tag doesn't automatically guarantee superior performance. An affordable product can absolutely outperform a luxury one. But taking the time to understand a brand's heritage, its research and development process, and the science behind a formula allows us to make more informed purchasing decisions. As difficult as it may be, we should learn to evaluate the performance of a lipstick, mascara or foundation beyond the logo on the packaging or the recommendations we scroll past on social media. Instead, let's learn to read the INCI, understand the quality and sourcing of the ingredients, and become curious about the passion, expertise and innovation behind every new bottle or compact displayed on the shelves of our favourite beauty retailer. Only then can we become informed, conscious consumers,people who buy a beauty product not because it functions as a status symbol, but because it helps us express our own beauty. And that is something no dupe can ever replicate.