The smokey eyes by Gucci proves that black never goes out of style A timeline of smokey eyes by Sam Visser
During Fashion Week, the same thing often happens: a runway show divides both the audience and critics. Some love it, some hate it, and some spend days debating online. This was more or less the case with Gucci’s latest show, which polarized opinions. But while the debate over the clothes remains open, there’s one thing everyone agreed on: the makeup was flawless. Credit goes entirely to Sam Visser, the makeup artist behind the runway beauty look, who opted for a classic choice: black smokey eyes.
Gucci’s smokey eyes: intense and lived-in
At Gucci’s latest show, the atmosphere was intentionally dark and nocturnal. The collection played with a sensual and slightly decadent imaginary, mixing classic elegance with current trends. Some found it fascinating, others less convincing. But honestly, that was of little interest to us: what truly captured our attention was the makeup. On the runway, models’ eyes were enveloped in deep black, deliberately smudged in an imperfect way. Each eye look was unique: some were precise and intensely black, others had a softer smudge veering towards blue or gray. Looking at the images, you can almost see a timeline of smokey eyes, a homage to its different evolutions. Some referenced a ’20s vamp aesthetic, others the ’80s paired with a fiery red lipstick, and some showed a more modern 2010s indie sleaze vibe with nude lips. The common thread among all looks was one: the final effect seemed like makeup that had stayed on the eyes after a long night out. Not the classic flawless gradient requiring half an hour in front of the mirror, but something more spontaneous,but sensual, perfectly matching the nocturnal mood of the show.
Everyone wants to recreate Sam Visser’s smokey eyes
To recreate this smokey eye, makeup artist Sam Visser mainly used creamy, easy-to-blend textures, focusing on a few products applied expertly. The key was a good black pencil: for the base, he used Gucci Stylo Contour des Yeux 01 Noir, applied along the upper and lower lash lines, then smudged to varying degrees with a brush to create that smoky, slightly imperfect effect. The secret, more than precision, was the blending: the color should not stay too graphic or sharp but diffuse softly around the eye like a gentle shadow. To intensify the gaze, lashes were well-coated with mascara, while the rest of the face remained relatively clean to let the eyes take center stage, with at most a subtle cool contour to enhance natural facial shadows. Depending on the version of the look, lips were finished with nude shades, outlined with a brown pencil or just a touch of gloss, or with a bold red like Gucci Rouge à Lèvres Mat Goldie Red 25, creating that strong, slightly vintage contrast seen on the runway.
