Jijide launches Talea A new interpretation of chrysanthemum
The artistic perfumery brand Jijide launches Talea, a new fragrance that is part of the Conversations collection to explore the theme of prejudice and collective imagination linked to chrysanthemum. Considered in Europe as a symbol linked to the commemoration of the dead because of its autumn bloom, this flower instead embodies resilience and longevity in China, while in Japan it represents the imperial family. Starting from this cultural dichotomy, Jijide transforms the reflection on the raw material into a real olfactory and social investigation.
Inspiration: chrysanthemum and cultural prejudice
The Jijide Conversations collection stems from a fundamental question: what can be discovered by investigating the hidden meaning of a single raw material? The choice to place the chrysanthemum at the center derives from its very strong symbolic value and its extremely rare presence in Western perfumery, often penalized by the negative connotation linked to the concept of mourning. Jijide's research thus aims to overturn this perception, stimulating the observation of what we already know through a different perspective, free from implicit conditioning and prejudice.
The collaboration with the Italian Perfumery Institute: the golden cage
For the creation of Talea, Jijide has established a collaboration with the Italian Perfumery Institute, an important Italian educational institution in the beauty and perfumery sector, chosen for its young sensitivity and contemporary approach. The students of the institute have expanded the original concept of the chrysanthemum, transforming it into a reflection on social expectations, on the “golden cage” of the conventions in which the new generations live and on the path necessary to find an authentic identity. This vision has structured the composition of the fragrance: the metallic luminosity of the top notes evokes the golden cage, the heart dominated by the chrysanthemum describes the journey of self-discovery, while the warm background tells of rebirth and the return to oneself.
The Tianle Feng nose: an Asian and multicultural perspective
Tianle Feng's nose translated the concepts developed by Jijide and the students into an olfactory pyramid. Chosen for his deep knowledge of the absolute of white chrysanthemum - extracted and processed directly in the family business - Feng brings to the project an Asian sensitivity that enriches the multicultural dimension of perfume. The perfumer has selected raw materials capable of supporting the conceptual story, making the most of the multiple facets of the main ingredient.
Talea's fragrance and olfactory pyramid
Talea unravels gradually over time. The opening represents the “golden cage” through the metallic shades of saffron and the Asian fruity touches of kumquat and yuzu, combined with the green and camphor notes of geranium and green Sichuan pepper. In the heart, dedicated to self-discovery, a floral arrangement celebrates the purity of the white chrysanthemum accompanied by osmanthus, lily of the valley, honeysuckle and magnolia. Finally, the background reveals a warm amber depth thanks to labdanum, ambergris, benzoin and vetiver, to symbolize the moment of rebirth.
Olfactory pyramid:
- Top notes: kumquat, yuzu, saffron, Sichuan green pepper, geranium
- Heart notes: white chrysanthemum, osmanthus, honeysuckle, magnolia, lily of the valley
- Base notes: labdanum, ambergris, benzoin, vetiver