The notes and colors of Bleu de Chanel as described by Olivier Polge The parfumeur créateur of the Maison of Rue Cambon reveals all the secrets of one of the most iconic fragrances

After seeing life in violet last April with the launch of Chance Eau Splendide, represented by the sparkling Angèle, today Chanel sees life in blue. And for a good reason: in a celebration of Bleu de Chanel l’Exclusif, the ultimate expression of Bleu de Chanel, the House took us on a journey to discover this intense and elusive fragrance, through the presentation not only of its main ingredient but above all of its creator: Olivier Polge. In the magical setting of the Windsor gardens of Paris, bathed in the gentle scent of sandalwood, we spoke with one of the greatest parfumeurs créateurs of all time, to whom Chanel owes many successes in perfumery.

You were born in Grasse, the world capital of perfumery and French know-how. How did this origin influence your choice to become a parfumeur créateur  and your entire career?

Indeed, I was born in Grasse. My father was a perfumer, which had a huge impact on my path because it is a rather rare profession, which I discovered that way. It also allowed me later to learn it. It was in Grasse that I had my first experiences of perfumery, in factories where raw materials were produced. This city therefore has great importance for me. I first started studying art history after finishing school, then I wanted to pursue a profession that combined creation and know-how. That’s how I decided to continue in the perfumery sector. I also lived a few years in the United States, where I created perfumes, and then I joined Chanel a little over ten years ago.

Chanel has been an icon of perfumery since the 1920s with its legendary N°5. How do you manage to combine respect for this heritage of the brand’s DNA with the codes and requirements of contemporary perfumery?

Chanel is indeed a very special brand, in the sense that it is important to remember that it was Gabrielle Chanel who had the idea of creating a perfume while she was a couturière, at a time when the world of fashion and the world of perfume were completely separate. So she had this idea that perfume could be an element of style just like clothing. It was something totally new at the time. She therefore found a perfumer and immediately integrated the creation and production of perfume into her work. One could say she developed not only a perfume but an entire style, which is very interesting. I believe the first thing a brand must find is its character. Chanel has a strong character, and that is what allows us in turn to draw from it when we create, as well as to nourish our audience. There would be nothing worse than creating a perfume from nothing and saying, well, at Chanel, with N°5, we developed a taste for floral perfumes. Also a taste for perfumes that are somewhat complex, somewhat abstract. It is therefore very interesting today to create perfumes with this mindset. Novelty and style are far from being contradictory.

What is your most memorable memory or your greatest pride as a parfumeur créateur  at Chanel?

It is difficult to say because I practice my profession on a daily basis and that is what I enjoy, daily creation, meeting people who allow me to practice my craft. In terms of raw materials or otherwise, one of the striking elements that has stayed with me is when I arrived at Chanel. Quite quickly, I was asked to create a new N°5. It was the creation of N°5 L’eau that allowed me to reflect and somehow position myself in relation to the house’s signature.

We are celebrating Bleu de Chanel today. What place do colors have in the creation of a perfume? Can we associate a perfume with a color?

Today we are talking about Bleu l'Exclusif. It is always complicated to talk about smells. I believe it is the most subjective sense that exists and therefore the most instinctive, which is why we often help ourselves by making parallels. I find that in this context, making a parallel with music is quite accurate. When we describe a perfume we talk about its notes, its accords. Another very accurate parallel is colors by evocation. One can quite imagine that a certain scent is yellow, that a certain scent is green, blue. It is somewhat more abstract, something that suits us well at Chanel. The blue of Bleu de Chanel and the luminosity it conveys was a source of inspiration for us in its creation. This blue expresses the essence of the fragrance. One can totally associate a color with a perfume.

If we know its color, what are the symbolisms of Bleu de Chanel?

It is quite difficult to answer because I think that somehow, my job is to create a signature. I believe that the level of symbols depends greatly on each of us’s uniqueness. Ultimately we all have a very personal way of judging a perfume and making it our own.

Bleu de Chanel is often described as an ode to masculinity. How would you define the Bleu de Chanel man?

It is a very masculine fragrance, in the Chanel way. It has something very elegant, it carries a certain obviousness. There is something very pleasant, comfortable and at the same time a very singular signature. I think that is where the explanation for Bleu’s success lies.