"Tooth gems are a decorative act of self-care" Interview with the tooth fairy Kola Payer
I'm Kola Payer, the creative soul behind Kola the Tooth Fairy. I define myself as a smile professional: my work is all about transforming a small detail into a unique design accessory. I work in various Italian cities, where I aim to combine technical precision with the aesthetic vision of tooth gems. This is the opening of the new episode of Under The Beauty Radar, NSS G-Club’s series exploring the underground beauty world in all its forms. Today, for example, we’re talking about teeth.
Interview with Kola Payer aka Kola the Tooth Fairy
How would you define your aesthetic in three words?
Ethereal, bold, anatomical.
Tell us how you started and how you found your artistic expression
I started driven by a desire to merge smile care with self-expression. My artistic concept was born from observing light: I didn’t just want to decorate, I wanted to create facets that interact with facial features. I found my voice by experimenting with different symmetries, realizing that a tooth isn’t a flat canvas but a three-dimensional surface that reflects the personality of the wearer.
Adapting tooth gems to each smile requires experience and study. How do you find the right approach for each client?
Every consultation starts with a study of facial structure and tooth alignment. I don’t believe in “copy-paste”: I analyze the space and shape of each tooth to suggest a design that enhances, rather than covers, and that lasts over time. The key is listening: I try to understand the client’s idea, whether they want a minimal, chic touch or a heavier, more underground setup, and translate it into a safe, technical plan.
How did you become passionate about tooth gems? Where did it come from, and how did you decide to make it your career?
My passion started by looking at ’90s and 2000s hip-hop culture, but I wanted to elevate it, bringing it into a more editorial and sophisticated context. I realized it could be my career the first time I saw the joy on a client’s face in the mirror. That’s when I understood that tooth gems are an act of decorative self-care, a way to reclaim your smile.
How does your work make you feel? Tell us about the importance of giving confidence to your clients
It’s incredibly rewarding. Many people are initially shy about their smiles; my work transforms that shyness into a strength. Seeing someone leave my studio grinning ear to ear because they finally love what they see is the best part. Giving confidence means giving someone one more reason to smile freely, without filters.
Tooth gems have become increasingly accessible in recent years. With uncertified artists and DIY kits online, how can someone recognize a legitimate product or service?
Professionalism comes down to three things: hygiene, materials, and method. A true professional only uses medical-grade dental adhesives (not industrial glue!) and lead-free gems. The procedure must be completely non-invasive, no drilling or filing of the tooth. If there’s no clear explanation of the hygiene protocol, or if the price is too low to cover certified materials, that’s a red flag.
Which gems are your favorite for decorating a smile?
I love Swarovski crystals for their classic sparkle, but lately I’ve been obsessed with 18k gold gems in various shapes. They add a tactile, luxurious touch that I find irresistible.
What advice would you give to someone who wants to start doing your job?
Don’t rush. Study dental anatomy, invest in serious training courses, and practice extensively. But above all: find your style. The market is saturated, but there’s always room for those with an original artistic vision who prioritize client health above everything else.
