According to Chanel Beauty, research and sustainability go hand in hand

When we think of Chanel, one of the first symbols that comes to mind is the camellia. On the occasion of the launch of the new Hydra Beauty Micro Sérum - an addition to the microfluidic routine designed to ensure hydrated and glowing skin even in summer, in line with the glass skin trend - Chanel Beauty hosted an immersive experience unveiling the true value of the white camellia. More than just an aesthetic emblem of the maison, it’s also a key ingredient in its skincare line. This is made possible by the open-air laboratory in Gaujacq, a remarkable example of advanced research and sustainability.

On a sunny day in Milan, the event unfolded in three stages. The first took place inside the Chanel Beauty lab, where Nicola Fuzzati (Director of Cosmetic Ingredient Innovation and Development) and Armelle Souraud (International Scientific Communications Director) illustrated the potential of the white camellia and microfluidic technology. Guests tested the hydrating power of the new serum using a device that measures skin hydration levels, while also observing the signature bubbles under the microscope. In the second phase, participants experienced the fresh sensation of the routine firsthand, guided by Chanel Beauty’s Learning Manager, who demonstrated the correct gestures to help the products better absorb into the face and neck. The experience concluded with a playful moment: a symbolic dive into a pool filled with blue and white balls, evoking the texture of the product.

We immediately asked Nicola Fuzzati and Armelle Souraud why the white camellia was chosen as the hero ingredient. There are several reasons: “In 1998, observing how the camellia bloomed in winter and thrived in harsh conditions, we hypothesized it might produce molecules of interest for skincare,” said Fuzzati. “It belongs to the same family as Camellia sinensis, or the tea plant, known for its pharmacological properties for millennia. After chemically analyzing Camellia japonica, we found polyphenols with high hydrating potential. And of course, the camellia is an iconic flower for Chanel.”

At the heart of the Hydra Beauty line is the white camellia extract, which naturally displays remarkable resistance, resilience, and water-retention capabilities. The active ingredients derived from this flower are both diverse and complementary: some focus on hydration, others on strengthening the skin barrier, and oils provide nourishment. The new serum combines these with hyaluronic acid and antioxidants to deliver immediate and long-lasting hydration, protection, plumping, comfort, and radiance. The result is skin that is more balanced, healthy, and glowing. “We speak of a true ‘water effect’ - a sensation you feel inside and out, visibly reflected in your complexion.”

All of this is made possible thanks to the Gaujacq laboratory in southwest France, where Chanel has developed an ambitious botanical project. “Thanks to field research, we’re identifying new camellia varieties and developing unprecedented active ingredients,” they explain. “So far, we’ve created 15: four active and others functional.” “Observing the plants throughout their full life cycle, in a natural yet controlled environment, allows Chanel to maintain high standards and imagine innovations that are rooted in nature,” they conclude. Innovation, research, and development are central to staying competitive in the beauty market. “Innovation is at the heart of what we do: delivering new solutions and technologies is what sets us apart,” they emphasize. Microfluidic technology, for instance, is used not only in formulation but in enhancing the user experience. “As a luxury brand, we want to propose new gestures without compromising efficacy, blending beauty and well-being into one sensory journey.”

The new Hydra Beauty Micro Sérum fits perfectly within this vision. “Hydration is essential, considering skin is 70% water. The serum can be used at any age and suits any lifestyle. The routine starts with the new Micro Sérum, followed by the Micro Creme Yeux for the eye area, then the Micro Creme and lip balm. During the masterclass, we also demonstrated specific massage techniques: Chanel hydration is a true self-care moment, not just skincare.”

Looking to the future, the focus remains on sustainability. “The lab is a precious resource, with over 2,000 camellia varieties and ongoing research. It’s also an inspiration for more responsible cultivation,” explains Souraud. Fuzzati adds: “Advanced research must go hand in hand with sustainability. We aim to source ingredients as sustainably as possible. For instance, our latest white camellia active was created by reusing already-extracted petals to isolate new molecules. Our deep knowledge of the plant allows us to maximize its potential. The lab also serves as an agroecological testing center, where science helps us shape a sustainable agricultural system that respects ecosystems.”