"I translate identity and emotion into something visual and concrete" Interview with Isabella Franchi, aka Unghiedellamadonna

"I’m Isabella Franchi, aka Unghiedellamadonna, and I’m a nail artist. I mainly work on advertising campaigns, fashion shows, and with celebs. On top of that, I often create social content for other brands." Straight to the point, Isabella Franchi is the professional behind practically all the most viral nail looks in Italy in recent years. How things change over time. We ’90s girls know that well. Complex, long, sculpted nails used to be seen as something too kitsch. Now, nail art has become a style statement, with endless possibilities. The trend is constantly growing. From French manicures, we’ve moved toward increasingly elaborate and refined manicures, with indie and sophisticated references. In Italy, Unghiedellamadonna is leading the way with her sculptural, always on-point creations. That’s why we chose to feature her in our format Under the Beauty Radar.

Interview with Unghiedellamadonna

Describe your aesthetic in three words

Playful, editorial, narrative.

Can you tell us about your professional journey and how your style came to life?

I graduated in fashion and worked for several years as a visual merchandiser. After returning from London, I discovered a passion for nail art and decided to pursue a new path in this field. My roots are strongly inspired by the world of fashion, tattoos, and art in all its forms. I like working with an aesthetic that’s slightly outside the box, where nails become a small creative space and a detail that speaks of personality, style, and expressive freedom.

What inspires you? Is there a specific medium you turn to when looking for inspiration?

I always try to draw inspiration from what surrounds me: fashion, buildings, paintings, images in general. I use Pinterest a lot, but I never specifically search for nails; I prefer exploring images, patterns, and moodboards to spark ideas and develop new concepts.

What is the creative process behind your nail art? How do you build creativity before applying it?

Since I often work with fashion brands and celebrities, I wait to receive the project moodboard and start my visual research from there. I begin creating some press-on tests aligned with the requests and prepare sketches of the ideas I have in mind so I can send them for approval before moving forward with the actual nail art. From the draft, I move on to production. Most of my work is created on tips, which I then apply directly to models when needed. This way, even on photo sets, multiple look changes can happen quickly.

What are your favorite materials to work with?

I use a lot of clay, which are sculptable gels that allow you to create 3D miniatures.

Nail artists used to be considered complementary figures, but now the role has become almost essential. How do you perceive this change in the profession influenced by social media? Do you feel pressure to stand out among others?

With the rise of social media, it has certainly become easier to showcase highly refined techniques and gain visibility, sometimes even with quick or lighter content. You may come across similar works, and it’s not always easy to understand where ideas originate. As for me, I feel that the core of my work remains creativity: research, experimentation, and building a personal language. I put a lot of care into every project because, for me, the value lies in expressing an authentic identity and maintaining a coherent vision beyond current trends.

What do you want to communicate through your art?

Every nail art I create always starts from an idea: I begin by listening, understanding tastes, desires, and requests. Whether it’s a private client or a brand, that’s where I start building. I’m passionate about transforming that initial input into a concept, developing it, giving it form and coherence, and ultimately telling its story through what I create. For me, it’s not just about aesthetics, but about translating identity and emotion into something visual and tangible.

What would you like your audience to perceive?

I would like my audience to first and foremost feel the passion I put into every project. Behind each work there is research, listening, study, and strong creative intention: nothing is left to chance.

What do you think about nail trends? Which do you love and which do you dislike?

I have to admit that I’m not particularly drawn to the more classic trends in the beauty world, like structural decorations and glitter with an under-glass effect, which I often see repeated in very similar ways. I do appreciate when a trend is reinterpreted with personality and taken in a more original direction. I’m very attracted to newness, especially aesthetics inspired by the Korean world, which I find extremely interesting for its balance between simplicity, extravagance, and detail. In general, I love anything that manages to tell a different story and bring a fresh, contemporary aesthetic.

If you had to give advice to an aspiring nail artist, what would it be?

My advice would be to dedicate a lot of time to practice and building strong foundations, without getting too distracted by the idea of going viral on social media. First of all, it’s important to understand your own taste, study what truly represents you, and work on developing a personal and recognizable style.

Other nail artists you admire/to keep an eye on?

Oh, too many. Tomoya Nakahawa, Yuri Osuka, Juan Alvear, Peggy Chen. Truly innovative people in the field who break every aesthetic rule and convention!