What are oligopeptides? One of the most interesting ingredients in skincare

When you read about oligopeptides, you probably thought back to those chemistry lessons where everything seemed super complicated. In reality, put in simple terms, they are the smaller, more effective version of peptides: short chains of amino acids. Oligopeptides work deep within the skin without the need for invasive treatments, helping it become firmer, smoother, and more radiant. They won’t erase ten years from your face overnight, but with consistent use the difference is noticeable.

What are oligopeptides?

Oligopeptides are short peptide chains made up of 2 to 20 amino acids, the building blocks that make up proteins and key structures for the skin. Unlike larger molecules, such as peptides, they’re tiny, which allows them to penetrate deeper into the skin barrier. Once inside, they activate cellular processes that stimulate collagen and elastin production, making skin more elastic, firm, and less tired-looking. Oligopeptides are easy to add to your skincare routine because they get along with even those actives that usually “don’t mix well,” like retinol, and they’re suitable for all skin types.

Types of oligopeptides for the skin

Not all oligopeptides are the same, and each has a specific role in skincare. Palmitoyl oligopeptide, for example, helps stimulate collagen and elastin, improving skin tone and elasticity. It’s the one most often found in anti-aging products. Then there’s acetyl hexapeptide-8, known as Argireline, which has a botox-like effect (without the needles): it slightly relaxes facial muscles, softening expression lines. SH-oligopeptide-1 stimulates cell growth and strengthens the skin barrier, perfect for sensitive or damaged skin. Oligopeptide-10 is useful for reducing redness and imperfections, while acetyl hexapeptide-38 helps the skin retain lipids, reinforcing the barrier and maintaining hydration. Often, product labels only list the generic term "peptide," but to know exactly which oligopeptide is inside, just check the INCI for the specific names.

Who are they for?

As reported by Hero Cosmetics, oligopeptides are suitable for "any age group, but those over thirty will benefit the most." Dr. Sarkar explains that over time, collagen in the skin decreases faster than our body can produce it, so including ingredients that stimulate its production is a smart strategy to keep skin healthy and plump for longer.