Emerging brands for fall/winter that (maybe) you didn't know about

From Amber Healey's fairytale dresses to HVÓYA's minimalist shoes, from Karoline Vitto's dresses that celebrate feminine curves to Ramispera's jewellery, from softandwet's romantic underwear to Supriya Lele's sensual Y2K outfits, ... it's hard to choose between the many proposals of these emerging brands. They come from different backgrounds and have styles that are often at odds with each other. But they are all talented and interesting and wearing one of their creations could mean adding a unique twist to our usual outfits for autumn/winter. So arm yourself with patience, a pinch of curiosity and maybe keep your credit card handy, because if you read on, you might fall in love with a new bag or draped top after seeing these brands' creations.

 

Made for a Woman

Founded in Madagascar in 2019 as a social enterprise, designer Eileen Akbaraly has evolved into a full-fledged brand that combines luxury and sustainability. The result is unique handbags, hats and accessories. All are colourful, each different from the next, and made by Malagasy artisans, including women from vulnerable backgrounds, who are supported with decent wages and a wide range of benefits so they can build a better future for themselves and their families. Great care is also taken to ensure that the materials used are natural, eco-friendly and local, such as raffia, the base of every Made for a Woman product, sourced from certified sustainable suppliers and GOTS certified dyes. In short, M4W is cheerful, green and adds a personal touch to our looks.

 

Karoline Vitto

Brazilian-born Karoline Vitto, a graduate of Central Saint Martins in London, spent some time in Italy before founding her brand. A rousing catwalk debut at London's Fashion East Collective in 2022 was enough to catch the attention of Dolce & Gabbana, who chose to sponsor her during the recent MFW. The SS24 collection combines new lingerie with her brand's signature features, such as cut-outs, steel wires (modular metal elements that can be tightened or stretched at will) and fitted silhouettes that follow and accentuate the body's natural curves. Karoline Vitto's fashion is conceived and designed to celebrate the female form in a harmonious and authentic dialogue with the female body. Beyond sizes and stereotypes.

 

Woodrose Deli

The softness of loungewear and the mood of New York women. From this combination of inspirations comes Woodrose Deli, a brand on a mission to blur the line between the clothes we wear at home and the ones we wear out in the world. Scrolling through their Instagram full of cool girls, we feel the comfort of the clothes and wish we could put them on our autumn shopping list: Dresses, tops, trousers and skirts with soft silhouettes, enlivened by little drapes, ribbed fabrics, raw-cut seams and declined in delicate shades from beige to pale blue, from grey to lilac.

 

softandwet

softandwet is an independent Italian underwear brand described by founder Alice Bruniera herself as "a caress for the female body, embracing its delicate but conscious femininity" Freedom, lightness and comfort are the elements of the brand concept, reflected in the ethereal and dreamy aesthetics of the products. Alice designs and sews everything in Italian silk, including her super cute ruffle briefs. Softandwet is not only about beauty and romantic sensuality, but also about having as little impact on the environment as possible - using made-in-Italy materials, recycled and plastic-free packaging and focusing on avoiding overproduction and waste. In case you're curious, the brand has just launched a new collection called Romantica - PART I, which includes not only the signature thongs but also lace bows that perfectly capture the current trend.

 

Ramispera

Early 20th-century Milan, with the shapes, colours and materials of the historic buildings in the city centre, is the inspiration for Ramispera, as can be seen in the brand's logo, a tribute to architect Portaluppi's diamond, whose elongated shape adorns the city's villas and streets. Founder Ilaria Azzolin, who studied fashion at Milan Polytechnic and FIT in New York and goldsmithing at the Scuola Orafa Ambrosiana, transforms design, architecture and the past into jewellery of discreet and timeless elegance. The necklaces, rings and earrings in brass, pearls and semi-precious stones are perfect for those who love minimal chic, but also for those who like to wear different pieces to create a unique and personal combination.

 

Eleanor Butler-Jones

Eleanor Butler-Jones is in her early 20s, from Derbyshire and graduated from Central Saint Martins while working as an intern at Kiko Kostadinov and Acne Studios. Her passion? Knitwear, which is also at the heart of her brand, but which she reinterprets in a modern way. An example? Her graduation collection was inspired by nature and included skirts and tops with a fragmented, unstructured, unfinished look, such as garments made of stretchy, crinkled knit: a signature crinkling technique she learned as a self-taught designer during her studies. All these elements can also be found in his latest works, which show more and more of Butler-Jones' skill and flair. The plus? Each piece is made by hand and to order. Care is taken to be as environmentally friendly as possible, to reduce waste, to use biodegradable packaging and to give preference to dead materials or materials from the region where possible.

 

ASAI

A degree from Central Saint Martins, an internship at The Row and a first independent runway show for FW19 were enough for A Sai Ta to attract the attention of industry bigwigs and celebrities like Billie Eilish and Rihanna, who not only wore his clothes but also wanted him as a collaborator for Fenty. After this explosive debut, designer ASAI took a break and took time "to reinvent himself and be present" He returned with a FW23 collection made from deadstock materials: frayed and fringed skirts, skintight corsets, nunchuk bags, patchwork denim and flamboyant tie-dye pieces.

 

Supriya Lele

Supriya Lele won the LVMH Prize Fund in 2019 and is one of the favourite designers of stars such as Dua Lipa, Rihanna, Ariana Grande and Caroline Polacheke. The designer of Indian and British descent fuses worlds in her fashion, drawing on both the essential aesthetic of the 1990s and the clothing traditions of India. The result, also seen in the latest SS24, are garments with echoes of the year 2000 and a joyful, emancipated sensuality perfectly embodied by the brand's iconic item: the famous trousers with cut-outs at the hips. So, also for next season, green light for draped tank tops, fragmented knits, frayed fringe, sheer skirts and low-waisted trousers.

 

 

Standing Ground

Standing Ground is the brand of Michael Stewart, an Irish designer who graduated from the Royal University of Art in 2017. He was selected for Lulu Kennedy's Fashion East programme and made his debut at London Fashion Week as part of the SS23 runway shows. He features an intuitive, handmade approach to draping, resulting in designs inspired by antique references, futurism and contrasting colours. Her creations in velvet or tight-fitting jersey wrap around the body, enveloping and celebrating every curve with timeless craftsmanship and elegance. The outerwear in Donegal tweed and the hooded dresses are also interesting.

 

Amber Healey

The creations of Amber Healey, a fashion design student majoring in marketing at Central Saint Martins, are super cute and look like something out of a fairytale. Her latest collection has the pastel colours of Federico Fellini's Juliet of the Spirits: scarlet, baby pink, peach, light blue, green and soft yellow. The silhouettes are romantic, literally delicious, like little treats to wear. Just scroll through the brand's IG and dream of a special occasion to wear the slip dresses, the midi skirts with ruffles, the tops with soft, voluminous sleeves like soufflés or the bras decorated with little roses.

 

Mirial

Mirial was born from the meeting between the historic shoe manufacturer Mirial from the Marche region and the visual artist Giorgio Ciccone, the brand's creative director. ÉCLIPE is the latest collection, launched with an advertising campaign in which Ciccone's mother, a dark heroine, was immortalised amid white clay surfaces. The same dualism of these images is reflected in the 49 models in the collection, which move between the gothic of black and shiny leather and the pop and pastel tones of loafers, ballerinas, boots and mules.

 

HVÓYA

HVÓYA is pure craftsmanship. The Ukrainian company, which designs and manufactures in the country, has incredible handmade offerings that are set to become the fetish accessory of the season. Shoes, handbags and jewellery feature unique, sophisticated, minimalist designs with good craftsmanship and sophistication. Dare, the footwear collection for autumn 2023, is no exception: from the Nude boots with their sensual aesthetic, mesh detailing and cowboy shape, to the Avery shoes with threads on the sides that add materiality to the silhouette, to the Turn boots with their sculptural, geometric heels that rise above the sole, or the ultra-soft Point and Pillow shoes with rounded toes.