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5 things to know about day 2 of MFW

From Prada to Blumarine, here are the SS24 collections that marked the day

5 things to know about day 2 of MFW From Prada to Blumarine, here are the SS24 collections that marked the day

What happened on the second day of MFW? The fashion shows continued apace, with historic brands, debuts and a large dose of sensuality interpreted in different ways from Prada to Blumarine. Throughout the day, Benetton, Fiorucci, Moschino celebrating its 40th fashion anniversary, Tom Ford with its new creative director, Max Mara and its chic gardeners took turns, while Blumarine's models grew wings. The show that received the most applause and made for an unexpected viral moment? Prada's SS24 collection. Your favourite?


The glamorous utility of Max Mara

The casual side of elegance in a play of contrasts. Deep blue, Scandinavian green, camel and soft pastels. Denim and organza. Leather and cotton. Maxi shirts and hot trousers. Cargo jackets and pencil skirts. Lightness and practical details. Max Mara's SS24 collection brings to the runway a secret garden of trees and shrubs inspired by the eccentric and sarcastic British intellectual Vita Sackville-West and her volume Women's Land Army, a portrait of English women from all walks of life who came together in the 1940s to till the land and feed the nation. Creative director Ian Griffiths translates these pages into sophisticated workwear: Jackets, trench coats and jumpsuits reminiscent of aviator uniforms, jodhpur breeches or evening dresses with criss-crossing straps, breast pockets and bare backs that reinterpret the concept of the apron. The result is a collection that strikes a perfect balance between utility and glamour, understatement and flirtation.


Miuccia's bow to Zambernardi

The viral moment of the second day of MFW and the finale of the Prada show. After the models had shown the latest (and as always beautiful) collection by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, Fabio Zambernardi appeared alongside them to greet the audience. The name may not sound familiar to many, but the talented design director of Prada and Miu Miu and long-time right-hand man of the lady is leaving the company after more than 30 years. The audience is still enthralled by the dresses on show on the catwalk and gives a standing ovation, while Miuccia applauds with a smile and bows to her long-time collaborator, the man who together with her shaped the Milanese brand's aesthetic. And what happened before this sign of gratitude and appreciation? The soundtrack to Hitchcock's cult hit Vertigo accompanied a series of garments with austere geometries and surprising details. Smoky grey London jackets with pointed, square shoulders contrasted with a very narrow waist accentuated by a belt coexisted with voile capes and shimmering metallic ponies, the robust cotton caban with chiffon pencil skirts, the fluttering dresses with leather waistcoats with metal rings or the cashmere polo shirt hand-embroidered with crystals and studs.


Moschino's catwalk show in 4 acts

Moschino is turning 40 and is taking advantage of the temporary absence of a creative director at the helm of the brand to celebrate with an event fashion show. For the new collection, he has commissioned four famous stylists to create 10 outfits each, inspired by the brand's archives: Carlyne Cerf De Dudzeele, Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, Lucia Liu and Katie Grand. De Dudzeele, an '80s icon who styled for Moschino alongside Jeremy Scott for ten years, starts with Moschino founder Franco Moschino's painting Still Life with Heart and designs a range of turtlenecks and jeans, black sheath dresses and tailored trousers, and black and white suits, all adorned with a shower of maxi crystals - all fakes. Karefa-Johnson, a symbol of inclusive fashion and the first African-American stylist to sign a Vogue America cover, favours a splash of colour, including crochet, patchwork, polka dots and cowgirl hats. Chinese stylist and creative director Lucia Liu evokes the ironic and provocative verve of Moschino by pairing poster T-shirts with cute Marie Antoinette-style pieces. Katie Grand, the popular stylist and founder of Perfect Magazine, opted for a Loud Luxory with dancers choreographed by Wayne McGregor. Back on the catwalk, then, are key garments and the irony of founder Franco Moschino. But it's just a faded and much less concise version of the original.


Blumarine's Y2K Angels

We are all saints and sinners. As Lily-Rose Depp sings in the soundtrack of The Idol, which plays in the background of the models' walk, and as Nicola Brognano narrates in Blumarine's SS24 collection. Angels parade down the catwalk, looking more like ancient gods to be admired and worshipped. They wear white dresses draped over the body, tube tops and low-waisted trousers, jersey catsuits as thin as pantyhose, see-through nude dresses made of Plexiglas and gold-smeared trousers. They are otherworldly, beautiful, unattainable creatures. And yet sensual, carnal. Like the butterfly, which has always been the brand's code and the guiding animal of Y2K style, reinterpreted on clothing and accessories, becoming belt buckles, tops, skirts, briefs and small bags.


Tom Ford's return to basics

Everything changes, nothing changes. Peter Hawkings, Tom Ford's right-hand man and successor, debuts in Milan with his first collection as the brand's creative director and decides to stay true to the line. For a moment, it feels like we're still in the late 1990s and early 2000s, when the Texan designer conquered the world with his glossy aesthetic of sensual and glamorous garments. The codes and cult pieces are all there: velvet trouser suits, dinner jackets, shorts, silk shirts unbuttoned to the navel, bare legs, pointed heels, imitation crocodiles and jersey dresses stopped at the hips by a maxi belt with a metallic oval. A curiosity: it seems that one of Hawkings' inspirations for this collection was Donyale Luna, the first black supermodel and inspirational muse of Andy Warhol and Richard Avedon. The documentary Donyale Luna: Supermodel, which will be broadcast on HBO on 13 September and will soon be available on Sky, is dedicated to her.