Manchester, the rebellious city where music and activism coexist From music and LGBTQIA+ culture to suffragettes, industrial spaces and new addresses, a weekend in Manchester discovering the UK's most rebellious city

Manchester is a quintessentially rebellious city, where music, activism and nonconformism come together seamlessly. It is a multicultural, multifaceted city that is difficult to put into a box. You understand this while walking through its red-brick streets under a grey sky, surrounded by people dressed in every way imaginable: dark, emo, hippie, punk. Different styles, different identities, different generations sharing the same space without ever seeming out of place. Manchester represents the freedom to be whoever you want to be. I arrived in the city mainly to attend a concert by Hilary Duff, one of the icons of the 2000s, who has returned to the stage with a new chapter in her career. The concert at the AO Arena, however, was only the starting point of a weekend that allowed me to discover a city far more complex than I had imagined.

From the Gay Village to the story of Alan Turing

Manchester is one of the British cities with the most visible and deeply rooted LGBTQIA+ history. At the heart of the city lies the Gay Village, one of the UK's main landmarks for the LGBTQIA+ community, developed primarily around Canal Street. Its identity is an integral part of the city and its history. And it is here that the story of Alan Turing, one of the most important figures in the history of computer science, comes into focus. During the Second World War, Turing played a decisive role in breaking German codes at Bletchley Park, work that was fundamental to the fight against Nazi Germany. From 1948, he worked at the University of Manchester, where he continued his research and contributed to the development of some of the first computers. In 1952, he was convicted because of his homosexuality and subjected to chemical castration. In 1954, he was found dead. Today, Turing has also become a symbol of the persecution of LGBTQIA+ people and of the need to acknowledge how long homosexuality was criminalised and repressed. Walking through Manchester therefore means moving through a city where the history of civil rights is still visible in its spaces and everyday places.

The city of the suffragettes

Manchester also played an important role in the history of women's rights. Emmeline Pankhurst, one of the most important figures in the British suffragette movement and founder of the Women's Social and Political Union, was born here. The organisation brought the fight for women's right to vote to the centre of the British political debate. The Pankhurst Centre, located in the house where Emmeline lived with her family, still tells that story today. It is difficult not to notice how closely these stories intersect. On one side, the fight for women's rights; on the other, that of the LGBTQIA+ community; in between, a city that has made activism part of its identity.

Music and industrial spaces

Then there is music. Manchester is one of the most important cities in British music history. The Oasis, one of the bands that defined 1990s Britpop, were formed here, as were the Take That, who went on to become one of Britain's most successful pop groups. Within this mix, which is perfect to experience over a weekend, I also discovered some new and exciting places. Native is located inside a former industrial warehouse and still retains the minimalist, contemporary feel that captures Manchester's character so well. Its spaces combine apartments and coworking areas and are also designed for people who choose to stay in the city for longer, from students and workers to those who want to experience Manchester for a few weeks. It reflects the transformation of a deeply industrial city that is now increasingly international and dynamic. 

Where to eat in Manchester

Food is another way to get to know Manchester. If you're in town, I would definitely recommend Mama’s Soul Food. For me, it was a completely new experience, especially because in Italy we have relatively few opportunities to try this kind of cuisine. The restaurant serves dishes inspired by African American traditions and home cooking, with bold flavours and an informal atmosphere. It is one of those places you visit not just to eat, but to try something you would rarely encounter in everyday life in Italy. For a sandwich, make a note of Reck: for me, it was one of the best bites of the weekend. And if you're craving tacos, JP Lab is another stop that won me over and that I would definitely include in a Manchester itinerary. One of the places that struck me most was Leven, in the heart of Canal Street, right inside the Gay Village. Here, your relationship with the city changes: you find yourself immersed in one of Manchester's liveliest neighbourhoods, just steps away from bars, restaurants and places that tell the story of the LGBTQIA+ community. It is an ideal starting point for exploring the city, especially after sunset, when Canal Street comes alive and Manchester perhaps reveals its most energetic, inclusive and free-spirited side. It is a city that seems to constantly tell you that you don't have to be the same to belong together, and that is perhaps its most authentic form of rebellion.