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Small guide to fragrance types

Do you know the difference between eau de toilette and eau de parfum?

Small guide to fragrance types Do you know the difference between eau de toilette and eau de parfum?

Perfume is part of our daily routines. Spraying a cloud on our hair, dropping two dabs on the wrists or behind the ears are small gestures we all repeat almost unconsciously, mechanically, yet they give us confidence, dress us, and represent who we are—or at least, our mood at the moment. To choose the right fragrance, we explore the latest trends, follow the advice of experts and influencers, let ourselves be tempted by delightful little bottles, and test various formulations on our skin, trying to identify the olfactory pyramid with its top notes, heart notes, and base notes. However, there is one detail we often overlook: the label accompanying each fragrance, such as eau de toilette or eau de parfum. That’s a pity, because these terms offer valuable information about intensity and longevity.

What is fragrance longevity, and what does it depend on?

How often have we bought a perfume we thought was perfect, only to find it too strong or, conversely, too fleeting on another occasion? Perhaps we didn’t choose well or didn’t correctly read the indications on the bottle. Another reason? We often forget that not all the liquid in the bottle is pure perfume—only a percentage ranging from 1% to 30%. It’s a blend of essential oils or aromatic compounds, which define the olfactory character, combined with water and alcohol. These components affect perception, intensity, and the sillage, the trail left by the perfume after application. But there are other factors to consider, too. Each fragrance depends not only on ingredient percentages but also on personal body chemistry, climate, seasonal temperature, and the olfactory family it belongs to. For example, fruity and fresh notes evaporate faster, while woody or oriental notes are more persistent. Additionally, those with dry skin or acidic pH may notice that perfume fades shortly after application.

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Perfume's types

Choosing the right perfume goes beyond simply liking the scent. We also want it to last and be sufficiently intense—but not too much. Navigating the myriad options on the market can be overwhelming, especially when faced with a wide range of confusing names. Who knows the exact difference between an eau de parfum and an eau de toilette? Understanding these differences can help avoid wasting money on unsuitable products. Learning the terminology is definitely useful. The first step when making a purchase? Familiarize yourself with the 5 types of perfume: eau fraîche, eau de cologne, eau de toilette, eau de parfum, and extrait de parfum.

Eau fraîche

The term eau fraîche (French for freshwater) refers to a fragrance with a very low concentration of essential oils or aromatic compounds—between 1% and 3%. Its water-based formula is light, delicate, and refreshing, making it suitable for sensitive skin and ideal for summer. It provides a cooling and invigorating twist with just a few spritzes on a hot August day. Eau fraîche typically features citrus notes like mandarin, grapefruit, lemon, and bergamot, sometimes accented with woody elements like cedar or vetiver for added depth. Unfortunately, the same blend that makes it refreshing also limits its longevity to just a couple of hours. To extend its trail, reapply throughout the day or use a body lotion with a matching scent.

Concentration of essential oils or aromatic compounds: 1-3%

Duration: about 2 hours

Cost: low budget

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Eau de cologne

Eau de cologne (EDC) shares many characteristics with eau fraîche. It is one of the lightest and freshest perfume types, with essential oil concentrations typically ranging from 3% to 5%, making it popular for summer and warm climates. EDC often features citrusy and fresh scents with vibrant lemon, bergamot, orange, and neroli top notes. However, its higher alcohol content than eau de toilette or eau de parfum reduces its staying power. Those seeking greater intensity and longer-lasting effects should opt for other fragrance types.

Concentration of essential oils or aromatic compounds: 3-5%

Duration: about 2-3 hours

Cost: low budget

Eau de toilette

Eau de toilette (EDT) is among the most popular perfume types, appreciated for its balance of intensity, longevity, and cost. It generally contains essential oil concentrations of 5% to 15%, making it pleasantly intense without being overpowering—ideal for daily use from morning to evening. The term “eau de toilette” comes from the French “faire sa toilette,” meaning to freshen up. Be ready to reapply occasionally, as its duration varies between three and six hours depending on skin type and climate. Initial application may seem strong due to its higher alcohol content and dominant top notes, while heart and base notes are subtler. Apply EDT to pulse points—neck, wrists, behind the ears, and elbow creases. For bare skin, mist upwards for a gentle, enveloping rain effect.

Concentration of essential oils or aromatic compounds: 5-15%

Duration: about 3-6 hours

Cost: medium budget

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Eau de Parfum

Compared to eau de cologne and eau de toilette, eau de parfum (EDP) stands out for its higher concentration of essential oils, about two to three times greater, ranging between 15% and 20%, and an alcohol content of approximately 12% to 18%. This combination ensures higher quality and longer-lasting fragrance (between four and eight hours), though it also leads to a higher production cost. While not a low-budget option, the investment pays off with a more distinctive, enduring, and complex olfactory signature, composed of deeper and more sophisticated notes that unfold over time. In eau de parfum, the top notes typically dissipate quickly, while the heart and base notes—representing the central part of the olfactory pyramid—take center stage. These enveloping scents of flowers, fruits, or spices emerge about ten minutes after application, while the lingering base notes on the skin and clothing often belong to the woody or musk families. All these elements make this type of fragrance a cherished purchase or gift for enthusiasts of artistic or niche perfumery.

Concentration of essential oils or aromatic compounds: 15-20%

Duration: approximately 4-8 hours

Cost: high budget

Extrait de Parfum

It is the most concentrated, pure, intense, and powerful form of perfume available on the market. The percentage of essential oils ranges between 20% and 30%, and its lower alcohol content compared to most other types makes extrait de parfum well-tolerated even by those with sensitive skin. Wearing it provides an intense and long-lasting olfactory experience that can linger on the skin for up to 24 hours, gradually unveiling its nuances over time, with persistent ingredients like oud, incense, and musk. Ideal for true connoisseurs and for those who wish to leave a distinctive impression, it is highly valuable and often housed in small, exquisite bottles with a high price tag. For this reason, it is frequently reserved for special occasions and used sparingly, with just a few drops applied strategically on the wrists, neck, or behind the ears. While some adore it, others find it excessively oily and costly.

Concentration of essential oils or aromatic compounds: 20-30%

Duration: up to 24 hours

Cost: very high budget