The tuxedo is the trend that makes a comeback at Milan Fashion Week

The tuxedo, or dinner jacket, has always been synonymous with class and elegance, but in this FW 24/25 collection, it has been infused with a distinct feminine sensuality. On the runways of Milano Fashion Week, the tones of black & white prevailed, forming a harmonious blend of elegance and sensuality, while maintaining the identity of the brands that presented it with their precise touch. Perhaps we had already sensed it; indeed, the street style that graced the streets of Milan was well-prepared on the subject.

What characterizes the tuxedo?

The tuxedo remains the formal attire that should always be present in every man's wardrobe, or so it was said until fashion took that extra step, bringing genderless to reign above all. English and Americans still argue over its paternity, after more than a century of popularity: from James Bond in total black to navy blue, the go-to male outfit for a certain type of event has always been the coordinated jacket, trousers, and tie.

The history of the tuxedo

Uno smoking della collezione haute couture primavera estate del 1967 di Yves Saint Laurent.

Una modella con un completo giacca pantaloni realizzato da Yves Saint Laurent nel 1967.

Let's start from the origins; we are now accustomed to finding the tuxedo in trends tailored for women, but where did the "scandal" originate? In 1966, in the boutique of a young couturier who would soon make history: daring to dress women in blazers and trousers within a couture collection that was actually a tribute to pop art. Yves Saint Laurent made history. The FW 66/67 collection gave birth to the first two tuxedos signed by Saint Laurent.

Nan Kempner, a New York It girl avant la lettre, entered a Manhattan restaurant in 1966 wearing a Saint Laurent tuxedo. When informed of the prohibition for women to dine in trousers, legend has it that she nonchalantly took them off, transforming the jacket into a mini-dress to be flaunted with bare legs. Thus, a myth was born; Saint Laurent overturned the gender dress code of the time, and 2024 is particularly grateful.

The tuxedo in the FW 24-25 collection by Dolce & Gabbana

Dolce&Gabbana, on the other hand, continues to celebrate the sensuality of the female body: Annalisa had already given us a taste with her looks during the Sanremo Festival, but on the runway, the common thread was confirmed. Not just one or two, but a multitude of variations were presented, consecrating the tuxedo as the ultimate representation of femininity, a trend that will be hard to fade. The faithful adherence to the brand and Made in Italy makes everything more coherent. In the runway show, the meeting of contrasts: masculine and feminine, rigor and sensuality make their way step by step to the notes of Róisín Murphy's "Murphy's Law," which tells the story of a woman ready to create her happy ending without any need for assistance.

The tuxedo in the FW 24-25 collection by Versace

Versace seems to offer a tribute to Vivienne Westwood, with a more robust, almost punk femininity. Leather takes center stage among trousers, mini-dresses, and gloves, but the colors and lines confirm the tuxedo trend, with versions featuring trousers and the longuette dress worn by supermodel Gigi Hadid.

The tuxedo in the FW 24-25 collection by Giorgio Armani

King Giorgio, as haute couture is accustomed to referring to when talking about a legend like Armani, focused on floral patterns without sacrificing space for his trademark. Armani has always proceeded undeterred on his path, interested in showing us a long and balanced search for harmony.

The tuxedo in the street style of Milano Fashion Week

Among influencers and guests at the fashion shows, the streets of Milan were a perfect balance of outfits set to the rhythm of black and white. Some opted for a more modern version, while others adhered to the typical coordinated elegance of a tuxedo where quality took center stage. It is certain that keeping up with fashion is now impossible, especially during Fashion Week when Milan becomes a show, and the city center becomes its runway.