The moodboard of FW23 Fashion Weeks

Paris Fashion Week marks the end of a month dedicated to FW23 collections, a strange season in which designers brought more moods than precise references to the catwalk, with a few exceptions like Blumarine, who chose to reinterpret the 1999 cult hit The Messenger: The Story of Joan of Arc with Milla Jovovich or Chloé, which transformed Artemisia Gentileschis paintings into dresses. Rodarte presented a gothic fairy tale with a range of fabulous outfits set between Morticia Addams, A Midsummer's Dream and Siouxsie Sioux. Coperni combined classic tradition and dystopian future by reinterpreting Jean de la Fontaine's The Wolf and the Lamb with Boston Dynamics' revolutionary robots. At Paco Rabanne, the 1960s met the surrealism of Salvador Dali, Gucci and Collina Strada paid homage to the work of Matthew Barney, and Moschino evoked Princess Gloria Thurn und Taxis' blend of aristocracy and punk. For his first show as creative director of Ann Demeulemeester', Ludovic de Saint-Sernin played it safe and drew on key elements of the brand. Miu Miu closed a month dedicated to fashion by reworking the concept of the working woman with her signature blend of ugly and intellectual sensuality, bringing to the runway a strange and intriguing mix of Frazzled Englishwoman, Edie Sedgwick and Daria Morgendorffer.

Below are the most interesting inspirations from the catwalks of these fashion weeks.

Saint Laurent - Catherine Deneuve

Undercover- The Specials, Manuel Göttsching’s E2-E4 album cover

Schiaparelli - Elsa Schiaparelli

Chloé - Artemisia Gentileschi

Paco Rabanne - Salvador Dalì

Ann Demeulemeester - Ann Demeulemeester’s archive

Valentino - Kaftwerk, Raf Simons, Kurt Cobain

Courreges - Eva Green in The Dreamers

Collina Strada, Gucci - Matthew Barney

Coperni - I like America and America likes me by Joseph Beuys, Jean de la Fontaine’s The Wolf and The Lamb

Moschino - Princess Margaret Rose Windsor, princess Gloria Thurn und Taxis

Miu Miu - Edie Sedgwick, Daria Morgendorffer

Blumarine - Milla Jovovich in The Messenger: The Story of Joan of Arc

Rodarte - Siouxsie Sioux