"Most of the time, my art comes from frustration or strong emotions I carry inside" Interview with Kanako, makeup artist from Tokyo

Under the Beauty Radar is worldwide like Pitbull. After Italy and France we went to Japan to talk with Kanako, from Tokyo. Avant-garde and unconventional, her work goes from ugly-turned-beauty to cartoon references, and it always dives in the weird. Interesting, no? Here is what she told us. 

Interview with Kanako, a Tokyo-based makeup artist

3 words to describe your aesthetic

Playful, avant-garde, unconventional.

How did you find your own creative approach and what helped you shape your work?

Most of the time, my art comes from frustration or strong emotions I carry inside. Growing up as a Japanese girl, I often felt like I didn't fit into the conventional Asian beauty standards. I’ve always had this almost anti-beauty-standard kind of feeling. Sometimes I struggle to put those feelings into words, so expressing my frustrations through my art has become a way for me to release those emotions and find a sense of calm.

Which subculture has influenced your aesthetic the most? Talk about your inspirations

Japanese traditional art and subculture have definitely had a huge influence on me. I grew up watching anime, visiting traditional art museums, and learning Japanese calligraphy. These experiences shaped my artistic direction and visual aesthetic.

Do you follow a plan or trust your instincts?

It depends. Work-wise, my first priority is to follow the creative direction and find the best balance with the rest of the team. So I make sure to check all the details and plan my makeup ideas carefully. But when it comes to personal projects, my main focus is on what excites me the most and whether I'm genuinely in love with the idea. So in that case, I definitely trust my instincts more and decide on the overall mood at the last minute, depending on how I feel that day haha.

What's one traditional beauty rule you keep on breaking, and love doing it?

I like to keep the initial skin prep as minimal as possible. After removing excess oil with a cleansing wipe, I simply apply a gentle, moisturizing product that provides enough hydration while also working as a primer. Of course, when it comes to glam/stage makeup, more steps are necessary. But for photoshoots, I love creating skin that looks realistic and natural, but still polished and well-prepped.

What's something about Japanese beauty culture people often misunderstand?

This is not just about Japanese beauty culture, but makeup in general. What's fascinating to me is that makeup wasn't originally just about looking beautiful. For example, in ancient Egypt, eye makeup was also used for practical purposes, such as protecting the eyes from the sun. In Japanese traditions, makeup has also been used in religious rituals and traditional performing arts, carrying meanings beyond beauty. I find it really interesting to explore the possibilities of makeup beyond conventional beauty standards.

Do you think underground stops being underground once it goes viral?

I don't think going viral necessarily means losing your underground identity. To me, underground is more about the spirit and intention behind what you create rather than how many people know about it. I think it's important to stay true to yourself and protect the community you're part of, no matter how much attention you get.