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Blumarine Y2K mermaids

A denim riot and a queen-of-the-abysses aesthetic

Blumarine Y2K mermaids A denim riot  and a queen-of-the-abysses aesthetic

"Intriguing and sexier, less pop, much dirtier." The image of the Blumarine girl evolves while staying true to herself and transforms from a bling-bling lolita into a gothic mermaid. For spring/summer 2023, Nicola Brognano, the fashion house's creative director, revisits the fairy tale of the Little Mermaid in a dark key by bringing his glamorous creatures an Underwater (which is also the title of the show) where the sand dunes are blue and sparkling. Bewitching and mysterious, they wear wavy extra-extension and denim pieces with silhouettes as sinuous and liquid as the ocean depths. A deep blue from the echo where a Y2K echo resonates and the dresses have layered lengths, cascading hemlines, burnished studs, shells and crosses that invade tops, dresses made of bangs, t-shirts and jewelry, like treasures resurfaced in the waves. Lotta Volkova's styling mixes early 2000s inspirations, glam and utilitarian touches, corsets and ultra-low-waisted bell-bottom jeans, cargo pants and oversized shirts, crop tops and long denim skirts, flouncy miniskirts with silk ruffles at the bottom and frayed tops, long jersey dresses and mesh sets, roses and laces descending from dresses like seaweed.

Blumarine leaves aside Mariah Carey, butterfly tops and her more girly, sweet and frivolous side to explore a darker and more complex femininity, capable of making denim, the most democratic of fabrics, into a subtly seductive weapon. Nicola Brognano has transformed the pop Lolita of the first collections into a young woman aware of her own charm who is not afraid to explore her goth side, without forgetting what she was and, in doing so, manages at the same time to speak of contemporaneity and to recall the past (in particular Blumarine's SS93 collection).